So, you’ve decided to come to Seville. The capital of Andalusia, the heart of flamenco, the historical “doorway to the Americas”. Set on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, Seville is full of fascinating architecture, delicious food, and the famous flamenco spirit. After making this beautiful city my home for 15 months, I’ve now put together a Seville itinerary of how to make the most of two days in this incredible Spanish city. (Also, be sure to check out my article on which foods to try while you’re there!)
Seville Itinerary Logistics
When to Visit
Summer temperatures in Seville regularly hover above 35-40 degrees Celsius in July and August. So, unless you really love the heat, I would recommend avoiding Seville’s sweltering summer. Late spring and early autumn are still lovely and warm, but not overbearingly hot.
Semana Santa and the Feria de Abril take place in March and April (occasionally May). These two week-long celebrations are the most important dates in Seville’s calendar. If you want to experience the buzzing atmosphere of these two special events, you should plan a Seville trip itinerary around these dates. Although it’s an incredible experience, Seville is already extremely crowded, so my two-day Seville itinerary may not be best enjoyed during these celebrations.
If you are flying to Seville, there is a handy shuttle bus into town called the Especial Aeropuerto (or, “EA”). It costs 4 euros for a one-way trip, and you can buy the ticket on the bus. If you take the train, the Santa Justa train station isn’t a far walk from the city centre, nor is the bus station at Plaza de Armas.
Day One of Your Seville Trip Itinerary
The itinerary for the first day in Seville includes visiting the cathedral and giralda (bell tower), discovering the Santa Cruz and Triana neighbourhoods, eating by the side of the river, and watching a flamenco performance. Let’s have a look in more detail!
Whenever I’m in a new city, I like to find a high point to see the gorgeous views and get a feel for the layout. A good place for this in Seville is the giralda — the bell tower of Catedral de Sevilla. Book your tickets online or buy them at the door. The cathedral is well-worth seeing, too and included in the ticket price. The giralda (with ramps rather than stairs most of the way up) offers stunning photo opportunities of the cathedral roofs and Seville from above.
Wander Around Santa Cruz
After seeing Seville from above, you can explore it from within. The centre is a picturesque labyrinth of pedestrian streets and alleyways, teeming with local bars, flamenco tablaos, and seemingly millions of churches tucked around every corner. The Santa Cruz area (just southeast of the centre) is one of the prettiest parts, where you’ll come across many plazas complete with a few bars, orange trees, and maybe an intricate fountain or statue. In Santa Cruz, feel free to stop for a mid-morning drink during your Seville itinerary and do a spot of people-watching, too.
From Santa Cruz, it’s a 20-minute walk across the historic Puente Isabel I bridge into Triana. More commonly known as the Triana bridge, this was the only bridge linking Triana to the centre of Seville for around 700 years! There are great photo opportunities as you cross it. Once you’re across, it’s probably time for lunch and you can’t find a better lunch spot than Calle Betis. Located along the river, the restaurants here offer excellent river and city views.
However, I would recommend La Salina for tapas, fresh fish, flavourful rice dishes, and delicious desserts. Be aware that Spanish meal times may be different than what you’re used to! Usual restaurant hours will be 1-4:30/5 PM for lunch and 8-11:30/midnight for dinner. If you go outside of these times, you’ll often find the kitchen, or the whole restaurant, closed.
To help all that food go down, my next suggestion is to explore Triana. Historically, this was a separate village, but Triana has now been assimilated into Seville proper. As the traditional heart of flamenco, the area still maintains its proud sense of identity.
Triana was also one of the most important centres of ceramics and pottery in Europe. This heritage is still proudly visible today, so keep your eyes peeled for decorative plaques and signs along the streets. There is also an unassuming but fascinating ceramics museum, as well as ceramics shops perfect for browsing or souvenir shopping. If you feel like even more walking, there are nice paths along the river heading north.
Tapas and Flamenco Tablao
After all that wandering around, you’re going to need something to eat. But don’t worry, Seville has you well and truly covered. There are many options. Bars in the centre will be a little pricier, but you can’t beat munching on some croquetas while admiring the impressive cathedral’s architecture and soaking up the lively Spanish atmosphere.
From here, it’s time for some flamenco to conclude your first day in Seville. La Carbonería is the venue I generally recommend. The venue offers the highest-quality, free flamenco show I have seen in a great atmosphere. The dancing “stage” is a black rectangle on the ground, so you’ll need to get there early for the best seat and best experience. La Carbonería is also a bar, so you can enjoy drinks or tapas while you watch.
However, if you’re really a flamenco fan, I’d recommend paying to see a performance. My favourite is La Casa de la Memoria. Again, get there early to get a seat in the middle at the front. The intensity in the flamenco performed here is amazing, as you are so close to the artists. It’s not a bar, so all the attention is focused on the performance.
Day Two of Your Seville Itinerary
After the delights of day one in Seville, the second day of the itinerary brings us the Real Alcázar, Plaza de España, a picnic in the park, water sports, and night time drinks with a view. Let’s find out more.
Before visiting the Real Alcázar, why not pop out to a cafe for breakfast? A good old tostada (toast) with tomato and olive oil, orange juice, and café con leche (milky coffee) is the best way to start the day, and it’s common in Seville to eat breakfast out rather than at home.
After breakfast, you’ll have energy for the Real Alcázar. Built in the 10th century by the Caliph of Córdoba, the palace has since been constantly adapted and re-adapted to fit different owners, fashions, and styles. Nowadays, it is open to the public. You can see both the impressive interiors and extensive gardens for only 13.50 euros. I would recommend spending a good few hours exploring the palace to make the most of it.
Plaza de España and Maria Luisa Park
Next on the itinerary is one of my favourite places in Seville: Plaza de España. There’s not much to do there, but it’s so pretty! Here, you’ll see beautiful ceramic decorations, intricate architecture, and colourful murals of the capitals of the provinces of Spain. You can also hire small boats to explore the area through its little waterways. There are often people dancing flamenco, too.
While you’re in that part of the city, pop across into the Parque María Luisa, one of Seville’s greener locations. Take a picnic lunch to enjoy, or just wander around taking in the peace and quiet in the middle of the city.
Kayak or Paddleboarding on the River
Next, our itinerary heads back to the river. Since Seville lacks a beach and coastline, which many famous Spanish cities have, the river is its lifeline. If you have the energy for it, I recommend hiring a kayak or stand-up paddleboard especially in the warmer months. It’s a refreshing activity to cool down while seeing the city from a different angle. You can rent these from the Club Deportivo Triana or Paddle Surf Sevilla, for example. If you don’t have the energy, grab a coffee or afternoon sangría from one of the bars along the city centre side of the river, and look back across to La Salina and Calle Betis from yesterday’s itinerary.
Las Setas and Evening Drinks
Finally, there are just two things left to do in this itinerary. First, head up the Metropol Parasol, or Las Setas as everyone in Seville knows it. A unique piece of architecture, this is the largest wooden structure in the world. It has nice views of the city from above, and a lively atmosphere below. If you go up around sunset, you get to see the sunlight fade and the city lights come out, but any time is beautiful.
Then, it’s up to you how to finish your Seville itinerary, but I have two suggestions. First, you could grab some tapas in the centre before visiting one of the rooftop bars for cocktails with stunning views. Some possibilities include Pura Vida for views of the cathedral or Hotel Kivir for views over the river.
Second, you could choose the Alameda de Hércules, the hub of nightlife in Seville. There, you will find a myriad of bars with both food and drink. The area is guaranteed to be busy any day of the week, with a mix of locals and tourists. Either way, make the most of your last few hours in Seville by soaking up its beautiful buildings and cheerful atmosphere.
Now you have plenty of ideas for how to plan your trip to Seville. Don’t take this Seville itinerary as gospel, but tweak it to fit your own adventurous style. May your unique trip to Seville bring you a splash of the Andalusian love for life and celebrating!