For Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov, the designers behind the Paris-based On Aura Tout Vu, fashion is not just pretty dresses and expensive diamonds. It’s a state of mind, a form of art. Fashion has the capability to provoke and propel conversations while building bridges between cultures and countries around the world.
But like any creative endeavor, it can take a lifetime to actually make something. “We maybe need more time, but in fashion, you have no time,” says Livia.
“That’s why we chose couture,” adds Yassen. “Because with ready-to-wear, you need to make 20 collections per year. In the end, you don’t really create something. You just repeat and change some details. We chose couture because it’s creative and we have time and liberty to develop.”
On Aura Tout Vu’s collections respond to events locally and globally. Their 2023 spring collection, Sunlightpower, incorporated flexible solar modules capable of charging phones into the designs. The solar technology came from the French and German company ASCA, which created a thin, flexible photovoltaic film that can be applied to nearly anything.
“It was a very immediate idea because it was immediately after the war,” says Yassen, referring to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. “Also, the energy crisis was so huge, and our position was: ‘What can fashion do about all this?’”
“We try to understand it in a creative way,” says Livia. “And to show, in the end, each of us can produce our own energy.”
Both designers were born and educated in Bulgaria before furthering their education and training in France. Yassen founded On Aura Tout Vu—meaning “we’ve seen it all”—in 1995 with Portuguese designer André de Sà Pessoa. Livia joined in 1998. André passed away in 2005 but remains l’ange gardien de la maison, the design house’s guardian angel.
Musicians seem especially drawn to On Aura Tout Vu’s couture, jewelry, and eyewear designs, including Carrie Underwood, Rita Ora, Lady Gaga, and Beyoncé.
Yassen and Livia don’t have favorite pieces. “They’re all our babies,” says Yassen.
“We also know the story behind every piece,” adds Livia. “Some pieces are more cherished, but it’s not because she’s more beautiful. Sometimes the story behind it is special. Sometimes you take only three days to do one piece, and it’s your favorite piece because it was very spontaneous.”
The designers are always changing, always evolving, but never copying. “For the young generation, if they want to become designers or make something people remember, they must not copy existing things from the ‘60s, ‘70s, and say, ‘This is new,’” explains Yassen. “It’s not new. It existed before.”
They also think that social media has a good and bad side. The personal vision is very important and it’s become viral via social media. So Yassen advises the younger generation to “be yourself, be inspired, but don’t copy.”
“The most important advice I would give is to be who you are and to believe in your dreams,” Livia emphasizes.
And to truly create something unique, get out of your bubble. Experience the world. “You cannot just sit in your chair in front of your screen,” says Livia.
To see On Aura Tout Vu’s fabulous and futuristic designs, follow them on Instagram. To learn about more locals in our series, read about Washington, D.C.’s chef Padua Player, aka SugaChef. And then? Get out there and explore.
by Kara Elder
Thank you for introducing us to Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov. It’s fascinating to hear their story and that the Aura Tout Vu’s couture jewelry and eyewear designs are popular with so many stars like Carrie Underwood and Beyoncé!
I hadn’t heard of this before, but it sounds like they must have amazing pieces with their clientele. The one necklace you have on here is gorgeous!
Such a lovely introduction to these two talented designers. I agree with their advice to step outside of your bubble to be truly creative!
Believe in yourself is might sound like a cliche but it’s such a poerful advice. Never stop believing in your dreams and in yourself.
It’s fascinating to learn a lot form her experience. I love her advice!
It is so interesting to hear about this art and culture. What great pieces! It is neat to read the story and history behind their work.
Thank you for sharing! I am always fascinated by the back story of designs and designers.
“And to truly create something unique, get out of your bubble. Experience the world”. I love those two statements so much! I like these locals’ mindsets and thinking towards fashion.
It’s a pleasure to meet amazing people like them. And I’m so inspired how creative and talented they are. I also agree with them to being the best designer you should make something new in the eyes of people that never existed before.
I love love love the interview, they’re both awesome! What an inspiring story, love it.
I really enjoyed reading this post and found it very informative! Thank you so much for sharing
I loved reading about On Aura Tout Vu in Paris! The article provided a fascinating insight into the local fashion scene and the brand’s unique designs. It’s inspiring to see their creativity and dedication to their craft. Keep up the great work!
Very cool that they are combining technology with fashion! Makes for very creative fashion.
The immersive and authentic encounters you described truly capture the essence of the city and its vibrant artistic scene.
The opportunity to learn so much from her experience fascinated me. Thank you so much for sharing!
Every piece having a story is so special! Their jewellery is stunning too!
Oh I love this! Love getting to know local people!