Moving to Tenerife: A Paradoxical Paradise

Amanda Whitten Moving Abroad

I was out on a tourist pirate ship dolphin-tour one midwinter afternoon in 2016, and the water was just the deepest sapphire blue. The waves crashed about like small avalanches of pearls. Although I didn’t see any dolphins that day, I still had the ultimate blast as I flew from the boat via rope and into the open sea, as carefree as I had ever been. That day I told my sister half-jokingly that I wanted to try moving to Tenerife. 

The day that I truly fell in love with Tenerife, though, I was standing on the black sandy beach, Playa Jardín, with the Atlantic water lapping at my calves and the weather warm and comforting when Mt. Teide caught my eye. It was capped in snow. My first year in Madrid was one of the most stressful of my life, but that memory stayed with me, helping to center me in times of strife. 

Moving to Tenerife and Discovering What Living in Paradise Really Means

“Imagine living here” is something that we all say when, or if, we find ourselves fortunate enough to holiday in an extraordinary place. We rarely get to make it a reality, however. Moving to Tenerife seems like a crazy, impulsive, reckless thing to do even to this day, and yet here I am. With the two suitcases I packed, one backpack, and a half-baked plan, I got on a plane. The original idea was to get assigned as a teaching assistant on the islands, but it didn’t work out. I wasn’t deterred. 

Living on the island is definitely a little different from vacationing here. During my initial nine-day stay, I traversed nearly the entire perimeter. I’ve been here now since September 2020, and I’ve barely left Puerto de la Cruz — the town I now call home. Part of it is due to the pandemic, yes, but it also comes down to my personality. I’m adventurous in short bursts, but otherwise, I’m a homebody. That said, I’d like to share with you a few things about living here in this paradoxical paradise.

The Cons and a Few Small Heads-Ups about Renting an Apartment Here

  1. If you do move here, and you don’t have a Spanish-based income, regardless of your savings, people will hesitate to rent to you. I make pretty stable money from VIPkid and Cambly, but that didn’t really matter to prospective landlords. 
  2. If you want to rent an apartment alone without a partner, you will have a hard time. They will fear losing money should something happen to your income. In this way, I was, and am, lucky to have my boyfriend. They also prefer to rent to older retired folk with a pension.
  3. The weather in Puerto is finicky. It’s definitely warmer than in Madrid, but it often changes from hour to hour, if not even faster. It’s best to dress in layers because it could be absolutely cloudy one minute, and a bright, clear, sunny day the next. 
  4. Everything is uphill and steep. Somehow, I conveniently forgot about this or didn’t realize it my first time around. Prepare to sweat.

A Few Good Places to Eat

  1. Pizzas Magic Corner — You know those places that look slightly off the beaten path, a bit like a dive bar, but they always have the best, yet cheapest food? That’s how I would describe this place. Forget the fancy-schmancy pizzas from the Italian eateries. This joint’s pepperoni and mushroom pizzas are out of this world. And if you don’t like mushrooms, I only have one thing to say to you: How dare you?!?! (They have other options, of course).
  2. La Croquet Deli-Café — This place is in the center of it all. Believe the hype you’ll see in the reviews. Their gorgeous desserts and elegant coffees are 100x better than Starbucks. And this comes from a loyal Starbucks fan. If you aren’t an SB fan, and you’re maybe not all that impressed, consider this: The hot fudge brownie with a scoop of coconut ice cream will infuse your senses and skyrocket you to heaven. They have other crazier options, but that is now my go-to favorite. 
  3. Any place on Calle de la Verdad, translated to “Street of Truth.” This little side street is easily missed if you blink for too long. Should you find it, however, you will notice that it is generously decked out in all kinds of plants, giving it a really nice, quiet atmosphere. You’ll love sipping a glass of Vermouth here at any one of the little terrace restaurants while escaping the heat of the day in a veritable street garden. 

Some Historical Legends

Tenerife and the rest of the Canary Islands are so much more than popular holiday destinations. They are a place with their own rich history, culture, and even myths. For example:

  1. Legend has it that the islands originated from the mountain tops of the lost city of Atlantis
  2. Guayota was/is an evil entity said to have made his home in the bowels of Mt. Teide. It’s said that Achamán, all-powerful god of the Guanches, the pre-Spanish Berber-descending inhabitants of Tenerife, fought Guayota and this explains why Teide has been less active. 
  3. Guacimara, a Guanche Princess of Anaga and an amazing warrioress, fought off the Spanish invaders, and at the last moment, rather than being taken hostage, threw herself off a cliff, and became a mermaid who lives even until this day.
Mount Teide, Tenerife
Teide, Spain’s tallest mountain, does a mean impression of Mount Fuji

A Trio of Random Things

  1. There is a butterfly sanctuary and it’s delightful. It’s not in Puerto, so you’ll need to head towards Icod de Los Vinos. It’s a village a bit to the south and it’s super nice in its own right. You can also see the 1,000-year-old “Dragon” tree while you’re there. 
  2. Something you might not notice if you’re merely vacationing here is that there are a lot — and I mean a lot — of cats here. I think I’ve counted at least five black neighborhood cats in particular. The locals feed them and they are just the sweetest things. I already have two “friends” who sometimes wait for me on my evening walks, and they compete for my attention. Additionally, a lot of people not wanting to go through the hassle of moving with their pets abandon a lot of them on the islands. If we end up staying here permanently, I think adopting one would be a lovely thing to do. If you would like to know more about rehoming your pet on the island, check out the Canary Island Pet Re-homing Service group on Facebook. The group has dedicated itself to helping out strays from all over the Canary Islands. 
  3. Islands do Christmas right. Usually, by the end of the holiday, I’m so over it. I never wanted it to end after moving to Tenerife. There were lights up everywhere and they had lovely holiday music blasting in the streets. It was pretty cool, to say the least. 
Inspired by moving to Tenerife, Amanda painted some flowers on a trellis
The Canary Islands are as pretty as an Amanda Whitten picture

Only time will tell what happens after moving to Tenerife. This is one of the first occasions I’ve ever felt so safe and secure in my living situation. I find it so comforting to simply exist in a place filled with so much beauty. I find ample opportunities from which to draw my artistic inspiration. There are so many gorgeous flowers on the walls, in the ravines, and on the wooden trellises that populate the streets everywhere. The people are very friendly. It’s enough to make even the most unpoetic person (like myself) desire to compose something. Speaking of which….**Ahem**

Haha just kidding. I wouldn’t subject you to all that.

Thanks for reading…

Squirrel Girl

Closing the Door on Madrid: Moving Away

Amanda Whitten Moving AbroadBy Amanda Whitten

Catch up on Amanda’s interview series by reading Part One and Two!

Dear reader, my goal is to be nothing if not sincere. I want to answer as honestly as possible and show you the good, the bad, and the ugly — even if the ugly resides within myself. I’m just a person with a dream. I have so many, many fears, some real and others imagined, but my dream keeps me going. It is ever-changing and evolving. I won’t say that if I can do it, then anyone can. 

I have my privileges as well as my traumas, my character flaws, and disadvantages. I hope that my words inspire hope and courage to go out there and do the Thing. Ironically enough, it was a movie villain that once said it best: sometimes you can’t wait for opportunity to come knocking. You have to drag it kicking and screaming through the door. Don’t wait for life to come to you. Go and get it. This is the third and final interview that concludes a big chapter in my life — I’m moving away from Madrid.

Can you remind us what your reasoning was in moving away to Spain to work and teach abroad? Was it to learn Spanish? 

I decided to live in Spain because it’s a Spanish-speaking country. That means I chose Spain more out of convenience than as a method to become fluent in the language. Before moving away to live abroad, I earned a degree in the Spanish language and gained fluency a couple of years prior. That being said, my language skills have improved immensely since being here. 

A photo of a Hibiscus flower, which Amanda photographed after moving away from Madrid.

In your last interview, we talked about your goal to reach out more to Spanish locals. How are you doing with that?

Oh, my goodness. It’s worse than ever, haha! Now that I primarily teach online, I rarely get out of the house except to go to the beach (which I’ll talk more about in a minute). I do need to make an effort, but I find it easier to connect with ex-pats in general. Locals have already-established social circles while foreigners are always on the lookout for a good friend. I’m not complaining, though. I don’t know if I would want to make friends with people who were almost always moving away in the near future. It would be exhausting, I imagine. 

One of your goals in moving away to Madrid was to travel and experience a new culture while teaching. How did you do?

I think that I’ve done pretty well. I’ve traveled more than I ever thought possible. I’ve been able to dip my toes into several cultures. COVID made traveling this year nearly impossible, of course. I was finally going to visit Northern Spain after putting it off since I arrived. It’s sometimes easier and cheaper to travel to a whole other country such as Malta than to go to Northern Spain. Unfortunately, those plans got squashed. However, I recognize that I’m incredibly lucky, regardless. 

a photo of a stack of masks

Where did you travel in your free time from Madrid?

I’ve had the privilege of traveling to several countries. During my first year here, I went to Morocco, Portugal, and Italy. Over the next few years, I went to Belgium, Germany, Malta, and Iceland. I might be forgetting one or two, which is an incredibly weird feeling. 

What have your experiences been with travel during your time teaching abroad? Do you have any advice for other auxiliares interested in traveling while teaching abroad?

In the ministerio de Madrid auxiliar program, you have the choice of taking either Monday or Friday off. I would recommend having Monday off due to cheaper return dates for flying. Also, if you must choose Airbnb for your lodging, please consider renting a room instead of an entire flat. We must be conscientious travelers and not push locals out of their homes

In your previous interview, you mentioned that you were speaking and teaching English most of the time. What can you tell us about learning Spanish through immersion?

I can tell you that true immersion for English speakers is more or less no longer possible. English is too global and too common to become fully immersed in Spain. An exception to that rule is if a person moved to a tiny pueblo where no one spoke English — somewhere outside of any major city center. If you want to improve your Spanish actively, you have to put yourself out there. Go to free language exchanges, take a Spanish class, volunteer somewhere, and date locals that don’t speak English if you’re single. Sidenote, I don’t advocate using people. I mean that one must make it a priority to mingle and make connections with people who speak the target language. It can be mutually beneficial.

a photo of a supermercat in Spain

What was your most memorable moment in class? Do you miss your students?

In one of my academy classes, we had an activity as a part of our daily routine, where each student would write a different thing on the board. One would write the date, the season, the day of the week, the time, etc. The one that they all clambered over was getting to draw the animal. Eventually, we stopped limiting the drawing to animals, and with the permission of the student being drawn, the artist would draw one of their classmates. Eventually, they decided that they wanted to draw — you guessed it — me, the teacher! Their interpretation of what I looked like as a five-minute drawing was pretty awesome and hilariously sweet.

Let’s talk about your school experience: how have you been doing with learning more about the kids’ exams at school? What are your feelings like now that you’re going in a different direction with teaching?

It’s been interesting learning about their college entrance exams. Those tests are a really big deal for the students, and when they tried to explain all the aspects about them to me, I pretty much had a brain aneurysm. When I had my big, important pre-university test in high school, I took the ACT. It covered English, reading, science, and math. Over the years, I’ve found that it’s much more complicated here. 

These days, I’m focusing more on online classes with ESL companies such as VIPkid, Cambly, VIPX, Bling ABC, etc. I liked my job in Leganés, but it’s a relief not having to commute or plan lessons, among other things. I’m also sad, though. My time as an auxiliar was great, and I got to have all of the teaching benefits without most of the downsides. I made lasting connections whereas the barrier with online teaching makes me feel a little bit alone and isolated. It’s a tradeoff to be sure.

Follow up: remind us again what the Cambridge exams are and what ages take this exam?

The Cambridge exams help students enter the universities of their choice and pursue their dreams. The Cambridge exams start with young learners taking the PET and KET. When they are more proficient in English, they can take the Cambridge First and the Cambridge Advanced. Usually, it’s bachillerato students who take the Cambridge Advanced. 

a photo of a child taking a test

What do you miss most about Leganés and Madrid since moving away?

Madrid itself has a lot of personality. I liked it even more than I liked Barcelona. I found that surprising to me since Barcelona is by the ocean, and everyone rightly sings its praises. Each barrio, or neighborhood, in Madrid is unique both in atmosphere and in culture. In contrast, Leganés felt like the perfect place to raise a family. It had and has a certain tranquility to it that I had never quite experienced before. There are school buildings and parks everywhere, and the air of learning and education feels tangible there. 

What will you miss most about Madrid?

Even though Madrid was my home away from home, or perhaps because of it, I started putting down roots, even if I subconsciously did it. I made friends and became comfortable with my neighborhood. My boyfriend’s mom lives there, and I felt as if I was coming home when returning from traveling. I had a favorite coffee shop and places to go when I was feeling down and out. So, I guess that I’ll miss all of that and more. 

A photo of Amanda looking at the sunset

What have you been doing this summer?

This summer, I was supposed to go home to see my family. Unfortunately, COVID complicated everything. I was worried about catching it and bringing it home to my family. Quarantining on both sides of the trip was going to complicate my work schedule and cost me money. I was in the process of making the move to the Canary Islands, and it was all too overwhelming. So, I canceled the flight, worked online, continued to save up, and moved on September 1st. 

What are you up to now?

I’m glad that you finally asked. My boyfriend and I decided to move to Tenerife. Since then, I’ve been teaching on the previously mentioned ESL platforms and adjusting to living on an island. I decided to become autonomo, which basically means that I am officially self-employed and can be my own boss. There has been a lot of paperwork, bureaucracy, and hoops to jump through. Ultimately, this feels like the right decision — at least for this moment in time. Living by the ocean in a place where it’s practically perpetually warm is worth it, so moving away from Madrid was definitely the right call. 

A photo of the beach near where Amanda lives after moving away from Madrid.

Living here is a culmination of everything I’ve ever really wanted out of life. Life is good, and my only regret is not making it happen sooner. But the more that I reflect on my life, the more I can directly connect the dots in my mind’s eye. They make it clear to me that every decision, every choice I’ve ever made in my life — from choosing my single elective in sixth grade, to deciding to study Spanish in college, to moving away to Madrid — has led me directly to this place and time. And I do so love where I’m at, even if at times homesickness eats away at me.

What’s your next step?

I honestly don’t know. The future is an open canvas, and I have never been freer. In a way, I feel that Tenerife is the true adventure. I wasn’t in any way boxed into choosing it, and I’ve come here more or less alone. I didn’t have a regular job waiting for me upon my arrival or any other connections, for that matter. Despite all that, I can’t think of any other place I’d rather be except with my family. I see now that my time on the mainland was a very big stepping stone, and moving away from Madrid was the right decision. 

A photo of the beach near where Amanda lives after moving away from Madrid.

If you could do one thing differently than you did this year, what would it be?

This year looks so different from the last that it’s nearly unrecognizable. However, last year, I wish I had followed my own advice a little bit more. Take the pastries to the break room. Speak to at least one new coworker a day. Put yourself out there. See what happens. 

We are so excited to see what Amanda can accomplish after moving away from Madrid and to Tenerife! Keep an eye out for Amanda’s next post about her adventures abroad.